Peruvian Amazon Aboard Aqua Nera and a Colca Canyon Adventure

Join me as I explore the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve in the Peruvian Amazon, along with the beautiful Colca Canyon and the charming city of Arequipa. The Aqua Nera is a brand-new luxury ship sailing out of Iquitos, and I had the chance to travel aboard for four days and three nights. With only 13 guests and two naturalist guides who grew up in the jungles around Iquitos, the experience felt intimate and deeply authentic. Come along as I recount an unforgettable journey into the heart of the rainforest.

Today marks the beginning of an exciting adventure as we embark on a four-day journey aboard the luxurious Aqua Nera, navigating the mystical waters of the Amazon River. After landing in Iquitos, a short flight from Lima, and transferring to the ship's docking location near Nauta, we receive a warm welcome from the friendly crew and settle into our spacious suites. Each is elegantly designed with panoramic windows offering breathtaking views of the surrounding rainforest.

Our expert bilingual naturalist guides introduce themselves, sharing their wealth of knowledge about the rich biodiversity and cultural heritage of this pristine ecosystem. Tonight, we enjoy a gourmet dinner prepared by the talented onboard chefs, featuring exquisite Peruvian cuisine infused with local flavors. With the soothing sounds of the river as our soundtrack, we drift off to sleep, eager for the adventures that await tomorrow.

The morning sun casts a golden glow over the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve as we prepare for another day of exploration. After a delicious breakfast, we gear up for a kayaking adventure through the intricate waterways of the Amazon. Paddles in hand, we set out in small groups, gliding silently along the tranquil surface of the river as the lush greenery envelops us.

As we paddle deeper into the reserve, our senses come alive with the sights and sounds of the jungle. We spot colorful birds flitting among the treetops, curious monkeys peering down from the branches, and the occasional splash of playful pink dolphins. Back on the ship, we enjoy a cooking class and learn to mix cocktails with pisco, the local liquor, before listening to a presentation about the tribes of the Amazon.

As the sun dips below the horizon, we embark on a unique nighttime jungle skiff cruise. The rainforest comes alive with a symphony of nocturnal sounds — the chorus of frogs and the occasional hoot of an owl echoing through the trees. Tonight, we drift off to sleep with hearts full of wonder.

As the first rays of sunlight filter through the dense canopy, we board the skiffs and venture deeper into the labyrinthine waterways for today's mission — piranha fishing. Armed with nothing more than a stick, a string, and a piece of meat on a hook, we cast our lines into the murky waters. Did you know that not all piranha species are aggressive toward humans? Many are omnivorous, feeding on insects, crustaceans, and plants, and typically become aggressive only when provoked. The fish prove elusive, but the experience is exhilarating all the same. Afterward, the cool, crystal-clear river beckons us for a refreshing swim.

Following lunch, we connect with a local native community nestled along the Amazon. Many guests bring gifts to donate to the village schoolchildren. The homes here are built on wooden stilts to stay above the seasonal floodwaters, and we are welcomed into the home of a local woman who shares the daily rhythms of her family's life.

We also learn about Chicha, a traditional beverage made from yucca root. In the traditional recipe, the raw ingredients are chewed to initiate fermentation, as the enzymes in saliva help convert the starches into fermentable sugars. Venturing further, we watch skilled artisans carve hulls from wooden boats and browse a local market brimming with handwoven textiles and intricately carved souvenirs.

The Aqua Nera offers four-day, five-day, and eight-day cruises. For me, the journey ends on the morning of day four, when I say goodbye to my fellow travelers — some of whom are staying for all eight days. Normally the ship docks in Nauta with a transfer back to Iquitos, but due to road closures we instead dock right in the center of bustling Iquitos. There, I bid farewell to the beautiful ship and the new friends I made on board.

Nestled in the foothills of the Andes, Arequipa stands as a testament to Peru's rich cultural heritage and breathtaking natural beauty. Often overshadowed by Lima or Cusco, it is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered by travelers seeking authenticity and charm. Founded in 1540, the city boasts a captivating blend of Spanish colonial architecture and indigenous influences.

The historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2000, is a maze of narrow cobblestone streets flanked by majestic buildings made from sillar, a white volcanic stone. Its most iconic landmark is the Santa Catalina Monastery, a 16th-century convent that resembles a miniature city with vibrant streets, plazas, and cloisters. Stroll its maze-like lanes adorned with vividly painted walls and discover peaceful courtyards and quaint chapels.

And don't forget the food. Head to local markets like Mercado San Camilo or Mercado Central to sample traditional dishes such as rocoto relleno (stuffed spicy pepper), adobo arequipeño (marinated pork stew), and ocopa (potatoes in a spicy cheese sauce). Be sure to pair your meal with a glass of chicha morada, a refreshing drink made from purple corn.

Imagine waking up to the soft murmur of the Colca River and the crisp mountain air stirring through your window. This is the beginning of a day at Colca Lodge, a hidden gem nestled in Peru's picturesque Colca Valley. As the sun rises over the Andes, start with a leisurely breakfast featuring locally sourced ingredients and panoramic mountain views, then slip into the lodge's natural hot springs. Fed by geothermal waters known for their therapeutic properties, the warm pools melt away tension as you take in vistas of snow-capped peaks and lush manicured gardens.

After a barbecue lunch prepared at the edge of the pools, take a guided trip into the canyon and keep your fingers crossed for condors. Arriving at Cruz del Cóndor, one of the canyon's most iconic viewpoints, you may be lucky enough to witness majestic Andean condors gliding on the thermal currents — a sight that has captivated visitors for centuries.

As the day winds down, return to the lodge to unwind with a soothing massage, relax in a hammock overlooking the rushing river, or join a yoga session amid the tranquility of nature. Reflect on the beauty of the Colca Valley as you watch the sun dip behind the mountains, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink.